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May 14, 2001

Moro's in Allen Park flames with flair

Source: Detroit News
If the Blue Pointe in Detroit is a mini Joe Muer's, Moro's Dining in Allen Park is a mini Mario's. Proprietor Tom Moro started in the kitchen at Mario's in Detroit when he was just 15. It was 1968, and Mario Lelli was one of the best known and most theatrical restaurateurs in town. He loved being in the dining room, directing the staff much like the conductor of an Italian opera.

Moro, who calls Mario the maestro, is just the opposite. He shuns the spotlight and stays in the kitchen of the restaurant he opened in 1982 in a modest storefront on Allen Road. He leaves the theatrics to his waiters, who wear tuxes even at noon in the small room that is so low-lit and cozy is exudes romantic atmosphere no matter the time of day.

The other day, it wasn't much past noon when I stopped by for one of my favorite lunches: minestrone, green salad, some crusty Italian bread and a glass of Chianti, only to find that all around, people had been seduced by the dusky ambiance. At one table, a foursome of men was having one of the house's flaming desserts, a production including bananas, cherries and peaches, ignited with brandy, rum, creme de banana, creme de almond, curaco and Galiano, prepared at tableside with dramatic flourishes.

The mood must have been contagious. Suddenly, the cart was wheeled up to another table. Cherries Jubilee was the choice of a threesome there. Then two women across the room called their waiter over and sure enough - another flaming dessert. I watched incrediously as flames licked around the bottoms of chafing dishes as the confections were prepared and then poured over French vanilla ice cream. Could this be a typical lunch hour in low-key Allen Park?

Yes, says George moro, who is the bartender at his brother's restaurant.

"We average three to four flaming desserts a day at lunch," he says.

"When they see one, they want one."
Source: Detroit News

   

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